A Village "Health Clinic" in Ofaakor

Cathy, a nursing instructor in Koforidua, has befriended us and spent 2 days of adventure already. This beautiful day we took a one hour tro-tro ride to the town where Cathy lives and then she drove another 1 1/2 hours to a village in Ofaakor where she created a health clinic that she goes a couple times a month. After we arrived up a long dirt road from the main route we stopped at a single room house with a canopy for shade. It is named the "Goodnews Ministry" and is run by Janice, the lady with the blue dress and beautiful smile. She preaches to the outlying villages and has more energy than anyone else there.

The first thing Janice did as we got out of the car was to greet us with the biggest, warmest hug I think I've ever received. Then we were seated under the canopy with about 20 adults around. They greeted us semi-formally as is the custom here using both the "Twi" and "Ewe" languages. and taught us the proper responses and then laughed along with us at our awkward attempts.

We then all walked together down the dirt road to the Queen's house. The queen was away (and also the king) but we were shown to seats under a beautiful, big tree, a table was brought out and "Voila!" there was our clinic. Cathy brought (with her own money) several varieties of vitamins, ibuprophen, cold meds, and laxatives. Also a B/P cuff and stethoscope and glucometer.

WE thought we had come to observe the process, but Cathy had other ideas. . We were full participants, along with Michael, our house mate and almost med student. Well, Michael was called "doctor" all day as he took B/Ps (he had only learned how the day before with the nursing student who also lives with us), histories, and gave out vits, etc. Cathy has her Master''s in Nursing and is allowed to write prescriptions and administer meds. We wrote a "file" with each person's name (and believe me THAT was adventure in communications, because several of them do not know how to write their OWN names). We took vital signs and Cathy did the glucometer, and we all asked for histories or present problems. Silvia was the pharmacist's helper and photographer.

At first it was confusing. . then it was overwhelming. . and then just a "let go and let God" thing adventure. After that it was just plain beautiful and we felt truly honored to be in such a place with such loving, accepting people so willing to learn and appreciative of any help. Among the approx 40 adults under the tree we saw 2 previously diagnosed TB patients that were not taking their meds (OOPS! Good thing we were out in the open air, wasn't it?), one abdominal pains, a pregnancy with possible spotting, headaches, fatigue (a lady with 13 children). There was also a mother with 3 month old twins, one of which is in a picture of me. The babies were alert, but a little small for the US and slightly less muscle tone. Babies are carried on the mother's back almost continuously. . What a lot of teaching opportunity! Of course telling them to drink when water was so far away and possibly contaminated and CAUSING the problem, or else bagged "pure" water was too expensive for them to buy. . . I think we learned far more than they, especially gratitude!

After we spent 3 or 4 hours seeing the adults there was an additional approx 20 children. We did not question them all, but one served as an excellent interpreter for the adults. Michael, twelve years old, spoke perfect English and is one of the 12 students that Cathy pays the school fees. There were a couple adults and children with dryness of the eyes and also poor vision (remember the Lion's Club signs you see to donate glasses? They are really treasured over in places like here. . .) With Cathy's guidance we referred 5 or 6 to go the doctor ASAP and another lady in her 30's to go right away with a fever and malaria symptoms. . .

When we finished the "clinic" we each had a bracelet of treasured glass beads custom made for us on our arms by an elder of the group (with Janice overseeing and giving input always). We then were escorted all together back up the dirt road. We were seated and they began to sing and dance for us. Silvia, of course, joined them with the dancing and people always love it so when we respond and join in. (I'm good at hand clapping and keeping time.) And we say "thank you" (Maydasi peeeee in "twi") a million times a day just to see the surprise and pleasure on their faces as well as the fact that we are being sincerely grateful.

We were then offered a basin of clean water that they have to fetch 20 minutes each way along with soap and a clean cloth towel. By now we know what an honor it is for them to provide water when it is such a chore. . . We were then served "banku" which is cooked and ground casava, or yucca (I think I have that right now) in a consistency of moist bread dough. You eat it with your hands with various sauces which was this time a tomato base with fish pieces (head, tails, bones, etc). It is usually quite spicy and very good! Then another bowl of water and soap, etc is served. We were the only ones eating. . .I could only hope that they would be having something as good. .

After our meal we passed out some candy, pencils, and paper that Cathy had also provided for the children. She has 3 children of her own and she and her husband pay the school fees for 12 additional children from this village. Schools here all cost some money and some kids simply are not able to go at all (or stay very long) due to lack of funds. And some of the schools have very difficult situations with no books or paper and teachers that do not come to work or come many hours late or that hit them or yell if they do not perform correctly. But schools are another subject that I will get into another time . . .

We were then escorted to a house that had an indoor toilet that was clean and adequate, but with no running water the flushing is accomplished with a bucket of previously hauled water (remember 20 minutes each way). they carry water, like everything else, on their heads. . . Even small children can do it! The most amazing thing I saw was a seamstress carrying a Singer sewing machine (not electric of course) on her head and Cathy said they do that and go door to door to repair or sew "on the go".

When we finished after much ado and pictures and singing by the children, we were all rather quiet for a while (unusual for the 4 of us). It was a day filled to the brim and one that I think EVERYONE shall remember. I certainly hope we will go back again, and I also realize that this was such a small TIP OF THE ICEBERG. These folks need and welcome health teaching and could use info on nutrition, hygiene, and family planning according to Cathy's plans. And they are just a small village of the many, many that exist. But for this day we accepted we had made a difference if even a small one for a small part of the whole picture and made the acquaintance of some beautiful human beings doing the best they can with what they have (and do not have. .) JUDI

About "FOOD"

We got into Accra on the 29th of January at night. We were met by two gentlemen brothers, Anthony and Joseph, who have been friends with Father Bobby Benson for many, many years. Both brothers work at the airport and they usually meet Fr. Bobby Benson's friends who are coming from abroad. So, as I was saying, we were met by Anthony first who called our names: "Judi, Silvia". At that point our "souls came back into our bodies. . .", so to speak....! We had been very worried because we had tons of luggage and had not informed Father "B" and did not know at that point how hard it would be to get everything past "Ghana customs". But, as I said, once Anthony called our names, things started rolling literally! We were taken under Anthony's "wings" and were taken care of completely.

Father "B" met us outside the airport in a van labeled: "Clinical Pastoral Education, Koforidua". We were ushered into the van after all our seven 73 lbs., bags had been hauled on to the back of the van....! From that point on we had really started our GHANA experience.

Father "B" drove us to the head quarters of the Hand Maids of the Divine Redeemer, the catholic sisters who welcomed us with a laid out table full of food. We were welcomed that first night by sister Bridget, the head sister of the convent, sister Cecilia a nurse midwife and other sisters. We were completely taken care of, starting with the food and then we were shown to our rooms where we rested from our very long trip in very comfortable, clean, single rooms.

Little did we know then what we were going to experience. I was full of stories already and I immediately started "journaling"... Still, life and Father "B" the very next day showed us the Accra and Ghana "experience" that he knows and is connected with.

We had breakfast at seven thirty: Tea, bread and scrambled eggs. By ten we were ready, with all our luggage, waiting for Father to get us in his van to give us a city tour....! We started by following sister Bridget to the place where they prepare lunch for the children that they teach at the adjacent school. So we got to see the efficient way in which the sisters have to manage with very little to make a very nutritious and tasty meals. We were at the end given some of the seasoned rice (a Ghanaian version of Paella), which we really enjoyed.

That Wednesday was "permeated" with "Food". Little did we know then, that what we were about to receive was the very best that the country had to offer....

We were taken first to the house of the widow of the former chief of justice. The lady was not there but the people who worked for her had instructions to take care of us..., and they really did it in high style.

When we got to the house we were shown to the front veranda and once seated were offered cold drinks. After that we were shown to the dining room where a complete meal, with two different sauces, salad, rice, yam and plantain were placed in different serving bowls. We ate until we could not eat more..., although at that point we were still not very used to hot spicy food. We then had a little rest, Father took a nap, Michael (our student doctor from Rhode Island), Judi and I just chatted and were getting to know each other.

That night we went to a "Memorial Lecture" at the British Council, in memory of a Scientist, John Kofi Turkson, who had died in a plane accident eight years earlier. Father had been invited to say the opening prayer and other important scientists were also invited, together with the Bishop of Accra who were all part of a panel, discussing the Ghana energy crisis. It gave us a birds view of Ghana politics and Energy problems. Also discussed was the possible creation of nuclear energy as a possible solution.

After the lecture there was some food and drinks, but we were were still a bit hungry, so Father took us to the best Chinese restaurant in town, which in the end was really good but just too much. We had to take most of it home and ended up getting "home", at the sister's place, really late...., so we got a bit scolded...!

Of course by now, my friend Judi has asked me, "What does all of what you just wrote have to do with food?" My answer is: Everything in the end has to do with food, whether it is food for nourishing the body, or food for nourishing the mind or the soul. We need all sorts of experiences in order to have full lives..., and boy! Did we have all sorts of very interesting nourishing experiences that first day in Accra! (Silvia).

"ABOUT WATER"

"I give thanks to God every morning when I wake up for the day that I am about to receive" and at night when I go to bed I give thanks for the day I have had". I include in my thanks to God the "Good" things and the "Bad" things that might have happened during that day...., but I have never thought of "WATER".

And now that I have seen and lived "real" experiences about "not having" water available from a tap....! I still feel sooo very fortunate that I have drinking water (in sachet form), cooking water, bathing water, even if it is from a bucket sometimes.....!!!

I went to a small village, near Nkawkaw, this past week , and as I was taken to see the water fountain source, I saw and took a picture of the village people queuing with all sorts of buckets and pans to get their share of water for the following days.... They did it as a matter of course, and just talked and shared their lives in that way....

I went past them and went to the water well and was stopped by the village people. They said that if I wanted to walk in I could, but that I had to take my shoes off. I did not want to walk in bare feet, so I took pictures from a distance. The well looked inviting and fresh, but because there has not been rain for quite a while there is a water shortage. So, for now and until the rainy season starts that village will have water rationing, but that is part of their integral lives.

I went to another village, near Ofaakor which is an hour and a half north east of Accra. We met with about eighty people, between adults and children and had a very special day giving medical assistance. We were meant to accompany our nurse friend Cathy to watch her work with the community. Judi, Michael, Cathy and I ended giving medical assistance under a beautiful tree at the queen's house, but that is another story!

I found out that the people who live in the surrounding villages of Ofaakor have to walk twenty minutes each way to get any sort of water and that the drinking water has to be either boiled or bought in sachets, which they do not have the money for. As a result of that situation people are not drinking enough water and therefore complain of various ailments like head aches, stomach aches and we suspected in several of the cases that there is a cleanliness related illness resulting in diarrhea, but how do you suggest to people who cannot get drinking water that they are supposed to wash things very well with lots of soap and water?

Today my perspective about water has changed radically and I can now see that it is a "sacred" resource and now I understand why the people at the well will not let you get near it with your shoes on!Today I took a shower! I said to myself: "Medasi peeee" (which to me, is how it sounds like giving "thanks very much" in Twi). And now, I will not be able to take a shower for a very long time, hoping it will be for the rest of my life, without feeling the miracle of: "WATER". (Silvia)

A return to Accra and the Medical Society Meeting

We arrived 4 weeks ago (Minus two days). We are so busy living the experience and working that there is no time to write, or else the electric just stops for a couple hours. And then I have learned how to hook up my computer to the network again. And so I will just try to start. . .

On Thurs, 2/21/08, we returned to Accra for the first time since our arrival. We had time to really observe things that had just been a blur on our initial journey Silvia and I went in the van with others from Matthew House. . . George, our excellent and very skilled driver, Michael Padi and Marian who work at Matthew 25, and Henry, Fr B's brother. It takes about 1 1/2 hours on narrow, winding roads lined with people, animals, markets, and potholes. Like Venezuela and similar countries, I am always amazed that VERY SMALL children (and goats and dogs and chickens) seem smarter here and know enough to stay away from the speeding traffic.

Everyone is so pleasant with us and patient with our 2 or 3 million questions. We are all understanding each other more easily, I think. It's amazing how different the English we know can sound so foreign to them, and theirs to us. It is mostly the same words with some "British" english mixed in, but all it takes is for the accent to be on a different syllable and communication becomes a challenge.

I think here is where I will try to introduce you to Henry, Fr Benson's brother. He is such a sweet man, and he has been so very kind to us. He knew Michael's brother from a previous visit so they already had a rapport. And now we are getting to know him better as well. On the trip to Accra, he pointed out many features just like a very good tour guide and answered so MANY questions. He has a very sweet disposition with us and a GREAT sense of humor. He smokes still, much to Fr B's concern (and ours), and he has a respiratory problem. But when anyone tries to tell him to stop smoking, he gets us laughing so hard that we can't scold him too much. One of his lines last night was that since his last name was Benson (like Fr Benson, of course) that he must be related to Benson & Hedges and so it was in his family to smoke. . . So it ends up to be another case that everyone gets to choose how to live (or die) and you just love them the way they are. And pray A LOT!

When we arrived in Accra, the van brought us to the hotel that was attached to the major Cathedral where Fr B had been a young priest 27 years ago. He had made the arrangements for us and was mortified that it would cost us $50 (approx 50 cedis) per night. A hotel in K'dua is $23-$26 for a private bath and A/C and 2 in a room (usually 2 twin beds side by side). After all, a nurse with the equivalent of a Master's gets about $500 per month to live on and support a family, and the average income is MUCH, MUCH LOWER THAT THAT.

At first they started putting us in a room on the fifth floor, and Silvia simply stopped on the stairs (there was NO ELEVATOR), and said "No." Poor Simon, the nice man taking us to the room, didn't quite know what to do with us next, but then he called the office and told them. Sil apologized and kept telling him it had "nothing to do with him". So we ended up going to that room for just a little while, but couldn't stay in it anyway, because they had just sprayed so heavily for mosquitoes so the Raid was quite intolerable. So Sil and I ate our first meal of a hard boiled egg and crackers sitting on the flight of stairs. Then another room was cleaned for us (and not sprayed so much).

We then took a nap for almost 2 hours, while waiting for a call from the restaurant of the hotel. They did cook lunch and dinner at request, but they needed notice. When they called we ate in a small room with 5 tables and they (or rather one lady) was cooking and serving. Everything was very clean and smelled fresh. We had a delicious meal with fish, rice and vegs. Breakfast was included in the price and consisted of 4 piece of white bread (toasted on one side only), tea, with milk if preferred, butter, jelly and sugar. We asked for eggs and they were 3 cedis ($3) for two eggs the first morning and 2 cedis for two eggs the second morning. . . someone made a little extra profit that first day. . .

After we ate we went to the main purpose of our trip-a meeting of Family Practice Medicine doctors, faculty, and prospective residents. Fam Pract is a relatively new (3 years or so) specialty here. So knowing what it has become in the US, and my having worked in 1973 for a Fam Pract MD, it was fascinating to see the beginning of something in its infancy here. The presentations were so good and the questions so many that time ran out and I was not able to speak about hospice as I had been invited. . .

HOWEVER, they introduced Sil & me, and we waved as it WAS announced that Hospice WILL BE COMING to Ghana soon and that THEY wanted to be involved as a specialty in Palliative Care. The presentations all included the philosphies of "holistic approach" and humane treatment, and considering the whole person AND family when treating "throughout the entire life span". . . It's a perfect union and a vision that these people will be some of the interested parties that will create the possibilities here.

Afterwards, our dear Dr Mawuli, who had been responsible for getting us invited, took us out to dinner and wouldn't hear otherwise of my offer to take a taxi to a restaurant ourselves. As a matter of fact, he was quite horrified and "would not be comfortable" unless he personally escorted us to eat and to home. Later, Fr B was not surprised AT ALL tht he would take such gracious care of us.

But during his evening with us, he showed us a complete business plan for a HOSPICE near Accra. He already has purchased part of the 10 ACRES, and has a colleague that was also at the meeting that they expect to work together. The plans call for a joint venture of a paying clinic that could sustain itself and then help supply funds for the adjoining hospice. Remember I wrote previously that he has (almost) a PhD in public health, as well as almost finishing his residency in Fam Pract (usually 4 years, but he has done it in less). A very sharp and determined young man that has known Fr B for a long time and considers him one of his "mentors".

And so, despite the fact that I personally did not speak at the meeting, I DO FEEL that progress is being made and that a lot of pieces and players that will be necessary to actually get things running are moving around. Some people came to me after the meeting expressing interest and the desire to know WHEN some training and education will occur. I had to tell them was as yet still undetermined, but they would be kept informed.

Well, I'm going to close for now, but I hope to continue later today. There is just so much to say! And one person did write and say she enjoyed reading the blog because she could "feel transported here". That makes it well worth while, because we are really desiring to make our experience as meaningful as possible in anyway that we can!

PS. Please go to "Cait's Blog" that we included in our links! Especially go to the bottom and read her 2 poems and the experience with "pure water". And keep in mind that this is the young lady who is ONLY 18 YEARS OLD from Canada, volunteering before she goes to start at the University. She is here with an organization called "One World" and had to raise $6,500 herself to come.

She is an incredible person already AND the makings of a FANTASTIC citizen of the world. And in additon, she is a fantastic writer. Cait was also a big help in assisting us with this blog site, which we hope to keep improving.

Silvia celebrating at a funeral in the Ghanaian tradition

Michael playing with beautiful baby girl

Judi getting ready for Valentines celebration